BLEACHED YARNS

All yarns intended to be used white or dyed in colours are bleached. The process reduces the weight. Cotton yarn loses fully 5 per cent and linen 20 per cent when fully bleached. There are four degrees of bleaching linen yarns - quarter-bleach, half white or cream, three-quarter and full white.

General term for processes after winding concerned in preparing weaver's and knitter's warps. Methods of warping vary according to (1) the yarns employed (2) whether they are sized or not, and (3) at what state sizing takes place. There are at least seven methods of warp preparation, e.g., beam warping, direct warping, mill warping on vertical mills, section warping on horizontal mills and in cheeses on section blocks, Scotch dresser sizing, Scotch warp dressing, and Yorkshire warp dressing. Beam Warping is the system in general use for making grey cotton goods. The beam warper comprises a creel for the supply ends, which may be on double-flanged bobbins, cones or cheeses, and a beaming head which comprises mechanism for mounting and rotating a warper's beam and means for winding the yarn from the creel supply on to the beam under suitable tension. The number of ends and length of warp on a back or warper's beam is related to what is required in the weaver's beam. Assuming the weaver's beams were required to have 2928 ends, 24's warp, and 8 cuts of 96 yards each, the back beams for a set might have 2928: 6 = 488 ends, and 2 X 6 X 8 X 96 = 9216 yards. On the slasher sizing machine six back beams would be run together, thereby producing 12 weaver's beams each containing 2928 ends 768 yards long. Warp Beaming Speeds - With the old type of warp beaming machine taking supply from unrolling double-flanged bobbins, the warping speed would be about 70 yards per minute. In modern beam warpers taking supply overend from cones, the warping speed is up to 250 yards per minute. With beam barrels of 4¹/₂-in. dia., and up to 500 yards per minute with barrels of 10-in. dia. Warp and Weft Knitted Fabrics - Warp knitted fabrics in which extra yarn is introduced in the form of weft threads which are laid in between the warp threads and their needles for the purpose of adding extra weight and for patterning purposes. Warp Loom Tapes - Narrow knitted fabrics usually less than one inch wide used for trimming garments. They are knitted on circular latch needle machines, but the tapes are flat. Direct Warping - A method used in making warps for towels, fustians, and other fabrics in which the total number of ends can be accommodated in one creel, say not more than 1,000 ends. The threads are run from the creel direct to the weaver's beam on a machine similar to that used in section beam warping. Mill Warping - There are two distinctly different methods of mill warping. On the vertical mill, which may be anything up to 20 yards in circumference, the number of ends in the complete warp is obtained by repeating the runs the required number of times, e.g., with 200 bobbins in the creel, 4 runs would give a warp of 800 ends. The length of the warp is determined by the number of revolutions made by the mill for each run. The horizontal mill is much used in Yorkshire for making woollen and worsted warps It is used to a small extent for cotton warps and is largely used for making silk and rayon warps. The mill or swift is usually about 5 yards in circumference. Its distinctive feature is the making of warps in sections which are wound on the mill in overlapping manner. The creel capacity varies from 250 to 600 ends, and with 500 ends in the creel a warp of 5,000 ends would require ten sections. Section Warping for Coloured Goods - This is a system of making coloured striped warps from hank-dyed and bleached yarns. The bobbins are creeled to pattern, one or more complete patterns to each section. Each section is the full length of the warp and is run on a small section block keywayed to fit a key on the shaft of the subsequent beaming machine where the sections are placed side by side and run on the weaver's beam. Scotch Dresser Sizing - There are two systems of warp preparation known as Scotch dressing. 1. Dresser sizing used for sizing warps for linen damasks, etc. Back beams are first made and placed in two beam creels, one on each side of the headstock. The threads from several back beams are collected in one sheet of yarn, sized by passage through a size-box, brushed by a revolving brush, dried by hot air, and passed vertically upwards where both sheets of warp threads are united and pass on to the weaver's beam in a single sheet. Scotch Warp Dressing - The other method of Scotch dressing is used in the preparation of coloured striped warps, usually from warp-dyed and bleached yarn. It consists in splitting off from ball warps previously dyed or bleached and sized, the number of ends of each colour required in the finished warp. Each group is then wound on separate flanged warpers' beams. These beams are placed in a creel and the ends drawn through a reed according to pattern, and wound finally on to the weavers' beams. Yorkshire Warp Dressing - This is a system used mostly in the preparation of coloured striped warps. It is also invaluable in preparing warps dyed and sized in warp form to prevent shadiness in the cloth. Four warps with the same number of ends in each are dyed the same colour, and in sleying, one end from each warp is put in each dent of the reed. Any tendency to shadiness arising from irregularity in dyeing is thereby effectively eliminated. In striped work the required ends are split off if necessary from a larger ball warp, sleyed to pattern in the reed, and then run under controlled tension on to the weaver's beam. The dresser uses a brush as long as the width of the warp to brush out entangled places where the threads have adhered together with size. Yorkshire dressing provides perfect warps with every thread in its proper place on the weaver's beam, no crossed or missing threads, and a minimum of knots.

A simple weave used for towels, glass cloths, etc. A rough surface is given to the cloth. It is obtained by short floats of warp and weft on a plain ground. The weave is now much used as a ground weave for fancies. When first introduced it was only used to weave hemp yarns into towels, etc. The design A shows the ordinary 10 X 10 huckaback on four shafts. Linen fabrics are made from about 24's/22's lea, half-bleached yarns in many qualities. The cotton styles are about 56 ends and 60 picks per inch, 20's T., 18's W. The design B shows a huckaback weave for coarser cloths ▪

Indian terms for fine plain weave cotton fabric made in India, usually 40-in. wide, 60's warp, 52's weft. Lancashire mule spun yarns. There are narrow colour and white warp stripes, the colour, usually black, being tussah silk. The cotton warp and weft are bleached yarns. There are about 120 ends and 100 picks per inch. The fabric is made into garments for Mohammedan women.

Indian terms for fine plain weave cotton fabric made in India, usually 40-in. wide, 60's warp, 52's weft. Lancashire mule spun yarns. There are narrow colour and white warp stripes, the colour, usually black, being tussah silk. The cotton warp and weft are bleached yarns. There are about 120 ends and 100 picks per inch. The fabric is made into garments for Mohammedan women. ———————— See Susai.

Indian terms for fine plain weave cotton fabric made in India, usually 40-in. wide, 60's warp, 52's weft. Lancashire mule spun yarns. There are narrow colour and white warp stripes, the colour, usually black, being tussah silk. The cotton warp and weft are bleached yarns. There are about 120 ends and 100 picks per inch. The fabric is made into garments for Mohammedan women.

All-cotton cloth, matting weave, white and blue stripes, usually bleached yarns, and the cloth soft-finished: 34-in. to 36-in. wide, and made up in 10 or 12 yard ends: 60-ends, 36 picks, 24's white, 4-ends of 20's opal blue per inch, 14's or 16's weft. So called from Bengal, where the cloth was first manufactured. They were first made in Great Britain at Paisley.

Linen damask, made of partly bleached yarns.

A coarse linen cloth, formerly made in Bohemia and largely exported to Spain. It was plain weave and made of bleached yarns.

A native-made cotton cloth in the Madras district, made of bleached yarns. The quality varied considerably.

Very fine plain cloths. The original lawn was a fine linen cloth used for dress purposes, but is now known as " linen lawn " (see Boiled Linen Lawn). Indian Lawn is from 30-in. to 36-in. wide, 24 yards long, 72 ends and 64 picks per inch, calendered and made up book fold, or if 40-in. wide in long fold; the yarns are about 50/60's to 60/80's, both American and Egyptian. Victoria Lawn is a stiff-finished lawn, 24/26-in. wide, 92 ends and 92 picks per inch, and similar yarns to Indian lawns. Persian Lawns, 32-in., 24 yard, 100 ends and 100 picks per inch, 60's T., 80's W., and finer, Egyptian yarns, soft finish. Bishops' Lawn - A bleached and finished cloth with a blue tint, similar quality to Victoria lawn. Boiled Linen Lawns - Fine set dress fabric, made from all flax yarns such as 72 ends and 90 picks per inch, 60's/80's lea. Up to 100's lea warp and 140's lea weft is used. In many widths 32-in. upwards. Sheer Lawns - Linen cloths made from green or natural coloured yarns and piece-bleached. These also vary considerably in qualities and up to 100's lea warp and even 160's lea weft is used. Widths 37¹/₂-in. to about 45-in. Lawn was first known in England in Elizabeth's reign, when it was a linen fabric and used for ruffs, shirts, etc.

This term indicates that the cloth has been made of yarns that have been bleached as much as intended prior to weaving, and that no further treatment of that nature is given to the cloth after weaving. The warp yarns are usually bleached half-white or three-quarter white and weft yarns three-quarter or full white and the finishing after weaving is cropping, damping and calendering or mangling before making-up.

A plain cloth made from fine yarns, used for dress and other purposes. The cloth is bleached and soft finished. Yarns 60's to 90's or 100's both warp and weft. China or silk mull is a union cloth of silk and cotton and very fine in texture. India and Swiss mulls are other names for the plain bleached mull. A standard cloth is made 82 ends and 60 picks per inch. 70's/90's yarns.

The true hollands are made from flax yams. It originally was a very fine white linen used for shirts, but today this is not made. Brown Holland - 36-in. to 39-in., 48 ends and 48 picks per inch, loom state. White Holland - This is brown holland bleached and soft finished, and used for towels, linings, etc. Blind Hollands - 32-in. to 52-in. wide, coloured yarns, glazed finish, also in piece-dyed styles. All the above are made in numerous qualities, from flax yams about 32's lea warp and weft. The cotton imitations also vary greatly in quality, and the two cloths given are very fair standards, 40-in. to finish 37-in., 64 ends and 60 picks per inch, 28's T., 40's W., bleached and glazed. Width 32-in. to 48-in., 60 ends and 60 picks per inch, 28's T., 40's W., woven from dyed yarns in stripes and checks. Mostly used for window blinds and aprons, but many good qualities are made for dress purposes. A fabric is shipped to India as holland," which is all cotton, woven from white warp and blue and white grandrelle weft, about 26-in. to 30-in. wide, 52/56 reed, 44/52 picks, 20's warp, 2/36's weft.

A light plain cloth fine reed, pick and yarns, such as 100 X 80, 60's/80's. Both American and Egyptian yarns are used. It is difficult to say where a muslin ends and a cambric begins because of their great similarity. Cambric originally meant a fine linen cloth. Other styles of cotton cambrics are: - 53 in 61 yards, 100 X 100, 52's/62's all Egyptian 40 in 120 yards 92 X 88, 62's/62's all Egyptian 41 in 90 yards, 100 X 88 52's/52's all Egyptian. Records show that cambric made of linen was printed at London in 1595 and chiefly used for the great ruffs then in fashion with both sexes Bands cuffs also shirts were made of it. ———————— A very fine farbic without any weaving faults used for neckties and scarves when printed or dyed. Super quality yarns are used and fine reed and pick. ———————— A true cambric being an all linen fabric plain weave. Used for under clothing many dress purposes and hand kerchiefs. Usually green yams are used and the cloth is afterwards boiled and bleached. For handkerchiefs coloured yarns are frequently used for borders. ———————— A soft finished fabric used for dress linings in various colours and weights.

The operation of transferring yarn from one form of package to another, such as winding from hanks to bobbins, from bobbins to cones, from cops to bobbins, etc. The process that follows spinning determines whether winding is necessary or not. Cops and ring tubes or bobbins can be used in that form as weft in the shuttle, but they are not suitable for making into warps, nor as supply to knitting or braiding machines. Yarn in the other forms of spun packages requires to be pirned for use as weft. Although yarn winding is not a fundamental process like spinning and weaving, it occupies a very important place in the economics of yarn processing, and probably embraces a wider range of different machines than any other phase of textile processing. Even a bare catalogue of the different kinds of winding machines would far too lengthy for inclusion here. Broadly, winding machines are adapted for: - 1. Winding yarn for use as weft in loom shuttles, including winding on to wood pirns and paper tubes; solid cops for use in shuttles without tongues; quills for use in ribbon and smallware looms; layer locking at the nose of the pirn to prevent sloughing of rayon weft; bunch building at the base of pirns for use in automatic looms; weft rewound from spinner's cops into larger packages to give maximum length at one filling of the shuttle. The yarn supply can be from hanks, cops, spinner's bobbins, cones, cheeses, warps, etc. 2. Winding yarns for making warps from spinner's cops or bobbins, hanks that have been sized, bleached or dyed, cones, cheeses, and other forms of supply. 3. Winding yarns into suitable form for sizing, bleaching, dyeing, or for receiving other wet treatments, including hanks, warps, cheeses, cops, etc. 4. Winding yarns for knitting, i.e., on to splicer bobbins, cones, pineapple cones, bottle bobbins, etc., and on to bobbins for use in braiding machines. 5. Special process winding such as the precision winding of several threads side by side in tape form for covering wire, etc. 6. Winding yarns into packages for retail selling such as winding mending wools on cards; sewing thread on wood spools or small flangeless cheeses; crochet embroidery and other threads into balls; packing string info balls and cheeses; harvesting twine into large balls and cones, etc.

All-flax yarns are used for these dress fabrics, the yarns are boiled and bleached, and used in self-colours. Colours are always pale shades of pink, blue, hello, fawn and creams. Single and doubled yarns vary according to quality. Weaves are mostly plains, matts and twills.

This name is derived from the City of Mossoul, where the fabric was first made (Marco Polo), (see Mosolin). It is a very light, open plain weave cloth used for summer dresses and made in numerous qualities from super yarns, such as 52 ends and 60 picks per inch, 80's warp, 70's weft. Hair muslin has fine cord stripes. Crammed muslin is the same as hair muslin, but two single threads weave together to form cords. Shirting muslins are heavier, such as 90 ends and 88 picks per inch, 90's warp, 100's weft; 80 ends and 86 picks per inch, 80's warp, 100's weft. Cambric muslins are between the light muslins and shirting muslins, about 70 ends and 56 picks per inch, 60's warp, 80's weft. Paper muslins are made about this quality. All muslins are bleached, dyed or printed in a soft finish. Book muslin and Tarleton muslin are not muslins, but hard-finished plain cloths Muslins were not always plain, but had silk or even gold stripes woven in when made in Mossoul, but as cotton grew plentifully around the town and the women could spin yarns of great fineness, the cotton yarns gradually superseded silk.

These are heavy shirting cloths for hard wear. The designs are narrow stripes on a white ground. The cloth is piece-bleached, or woven with bleached and dyed yarns. A standard quality is made 104 ends and 68 picks per inch, 24's T., 16's W.

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